Monday, September 16, 2013

7 September - A Day in Town....

Today was a "down day"....breakfast at home, then we ran some errands with Alan before he dropped us off in town (Edinburgh) so we could do a bit of walking around and shopping (and pub crawling, not that we really crawled anyplace).  Before hitting town, we stopped at Murray Field....where the rugby matches are played.  Pretty huge stadium....I believe it used to seat more than it does now, but even now it seats 67,000 plus.

Sorry....not the greatest picture

The pitch at Murray Field

We started our walk in Edinburgh by walking through Princess Gardens which unfortunately, had bloomed already.  The "garden clock" at the end of the walk was still blooming, and telling surprisingly accurate time.

Princess Gardens Clock


Walking up to the Royal Mile


It's getting steeper....

Finally at the top....of THAT hill.  The Royal Mile actually begins at the Castle which is off to the right from here.

Edinburgh Castle as viewed from Princess Street

We spent some time walking along The Royal Mile, did some sight seeing and shopping (I spent a fair amount time at Royal Mile Whiskies....and other whisky shops....and other touristy less interesting shops).  Further down the road we found Deacon Brodie's Pub where we just HAD to stop for a pint.

So many choices....and we can only take two wee bottles home.

Across the street was St. Giles High Kirk....where the Heart of Midlothian can be found.  The Heart of Midlothian is a heart-shaped mosaic, formed in colored granite setts, built into the pavement near the west door of St. Giles in the High Street section of the Royal Mile. 

The Heart of Midlothian

Together with brass markers bearing building dates, it records the position of the 15th-century Old Tolbooth, demolished in 1817, which was the administrative center of the town, the prison, and one of several sites of public execution.


Visitors to Edinburgh will often notice people spitting on the Heart.  The Heart marks the doorway of the former Tolbooth (prison), which was the point of public execution.  Some people spit on the heart which is said to be done for good luck, but it was originally done as a sign of disdain for the former prison.  I was originally told in 1985 when I was in the U.K. studying at Oxford that those who spit on this stone will someday return to Scotland.  I have spit on this stone twice and have been back to Scotland twice since....so Gin and I spit on the Heart once again.

On to Deacon Brodie's Pub!!



Deacon Brodie's Tavern is named after William Brodie, one of the inspirations for Robert Louis Stevenson's Jekyll and Hyde.  Born in 1741, Brodie was a deacon of the Guild of Wrights.  By day, he was a respectable citizen and a member of the town council, but by night he consorted with lowlife....gambling and drinking.  His dark side meant that he had to take to burglary to pay his gambling debts, leading to his hanging in 1788.



Deacon Brodie's is one of the many rare gems in the Nicholson's Collections of great British pubs, reputed for their distinctive buildings, intriguing history and vibrant atmosphere.

We were getting thirsty so we HAD to stop for a pint.

The bar at Deacon Brodie's

I had the Dragonhead Stout....thick and creamy with
coffee and chocolate undertones.

After our stop at Deacon Brodie's Tavern, we walked a bit further down the Mile where we saw and listened to a piper playing the pipes.  We then made our way to The Royal MacGregor Pub for a quick lunch (and a pint) before heading back up the Royal Mile and on to our bus stop to head back home.  Tonight we have dinner next door at Ilse McMillan's house, where she is fixing a multi-course dinner for 12 of us and herself....BY herself!

The Piper....who was very good
Our lunch spot...The Royal MacGregor

Waiting for a wee bit of ice cream for dessert
Cafe Andalaz....where Gin, Annette and Jette had  lunch on Friday
when we were at "Lunch With the Lads"

The City of Edinburgh 

Another view of Edinburgh Castle

Dinner tonight was better than we could have gotten in any restaurant in Scotland.  We began with cocktails and conversation with most of the folks that we met the first night that we were in town....Sam and Christina, Jimmy and Sheila, John and Barbara, Ilse and the six of us.  When the "nibbles" were ready we were all called to the table to sit.  Waiting for us there was prosciutto ad grilled eggplant, artichoke and garlic....and wine of course.  From there we moved onto the starter course which was a risotto with garlic prawns and vegetables....simply amazing!  The main course was veal roulade (veal wrapped around asparagus and cheese), a creamy potato gratin and some salad (the salad was probably before this, but I really can't remember when we had it....it was all so incredibly tasty!).  We had more wine with this course (of course).  Dessert then came - a panna cotta with fresh Scottish raspberries (Scottish raspberries are larger and sweeter than our berries at home....AND they are seedless) and coffee.  But wait....we aren't done yet!  After dessert and coffee, Ilse brought out a huge plate of cheese (one kilo's worth).  Fresh Gorgonzola and a delectable cheddar, along with grapes, figs and various biscuits (crackers)....and more wine.  It was a fantastic dinner and a wonderful time....and I shouldn't have to eat for the rest of the trip (but I know that I will)!

Sláinte!!

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