Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Balvenie and beyond....

After the tasting at Balvenie, we needed to fuel up....or rather soak up some of the wondrous alcohol that was now in our systems (well, it was in mine since I has some of Gin's, some of Annette's and some of Jeff's samples.  It made no sense to let it go to waste).  We drove into Dufftown and stopped for lunch at The Stuart Arms.  I can't tell you what I had to eat, but I know it was tasty.  I do remember that I did support The Walking Wounded....a program to help injured Scottish soldiers....by partaking in a dram of 15-year old Glenfiddich.


a "dipping dog"....an example of what we 
used to pull our samples from the Balvenie casks

Jeff and Annette

Monkey Shoulder

High end whisky selection at The Stewart Arms

After lunch, it was time to head back to Ballater, but before we did we were going to add a stamp to our Classic Malt Passport and stop for a quick visit to the Craggenmore distillery.  We drove in circles for a while trying to find this place (and we never DID find it).  We did find the Cardhu distillery (by accident) and did a quick tasting there.

On the way to Cardhu Distillery

























Art....I guess.

Pagoda on the Malting Kiln

After Cardhu, we were making our way back to Ballater and we missed out turn.  This misstep led us into Tomintoul, and in Tomintoul is The Whisky Castle.  This little shop has over 500 different whiskies, with many independent and private bottlings (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnrKtoQvCkg).  It's a great place to visit, and the small shop next door had Tomintoul Whisky Ice Cream....yum!!

The Whisky Castle in Tomintoul

So MANY choices.....

Black Adder Independent Bottles....

Thor - by Highland Park

I will be back someday....

Another Highland Coo that we came across....he liked having his ears scratched.  Sort of.

A little further up the road, we drove by Corgarth Castle/Tower House and drove over Cock Bridge.  Yes....I said Cock Bridge....cock-a-doodle-doo?

Corgarth Castle

It's probably childish, but this just makes me giggle.

A little further up the road and almost back to Ballater was a stone arch bridge (The Bridge of Gairn) and a field full of sheep....probably weresheep.  I might be crazy, but I saw a movie a while back and up in Scotland there were some experiments being done....DNA testing.....cloning.....and things went wrong.  "Things" were created.....unholy things.....the movie was called Black Sheep.  Check out the trailer here....and beware - http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0779982/

The Bridge of Gairn

Field of sheep.....weresheep.


Up and over

Weresheep.  Just look at the hatred in his eyes.

Tomorrow is another day, and we'll be spending it hanging around town and hopefully going for a bit of a hike if the weather cooperates.  Until then.....TTFN (ta ta for now).


Saturday, September 21, 2013

The Balvenie Cooperage and Tasting.....

As I mentioned earlier, all spirit made that is to become Scotch whisky goes into once used American oak bourbon casks....and wood makes all the difference in taste and flavor.

American Oak Bourbon Barrels

"The transformation of new spirit into mature whisky is a miraculous as the change from caterpillar to butterfly.  The chrysalis is the oak cask."

- Dr. Jim Swan


"It's all about the wood, son!"

- Ian McDonald, Balvenie Head Cooper

Ian McDonald - Head Cooper

"Cuparius" is the Latin word that is the root of the word "cooper."  Coopers are a highly skilled lot and the average cooper will serve a minimum of a four-year apprenticeship before becoming a fully fledged cooper.  We watched two young apprentices at Balvenie working under the tutelage and very watchful eye of Ian McDonald, head cooper and 43-year veteran of The Balvenie (all 43 years spent as a cooper or cooper's apprentice....this man knows barrels).


Parts of the barrel

The cooperage

Checking the barrels

What do the coopers actually do?  They verify that the used barrels are in good working order and will properly hold liquid.  Barrel hoops and tops are removed, the staves are checked, new reeds are added between staves to tighten the seal, they are put back together again and then "pressure tested" with air.  If nothing leaks, they are moved to pallets and taken to the warehouse to be filled.  It's incredible how fast these guys work!

This machine takes about a minute to complete a barrel.
Ian McDonld can do this himself....faster than the machine.

Barrels waiting to be "rebuilt"

Barrels, barrels, barrels!

I want a full one of these at home (only, a Balvenie barrel)

Gin and Annette in the Land Rover - ready for the ride back to the tasting

Finally....the tasting!



After the cooperage, we went to Warehouse 24 (yes, I was a bit out of order with my previous post) and had the opportunity to fill a 20cl bottle directly from the cask.  Before doing so, we were allowed to taste each one.....David dipped the "dog" into the cask and poured a sample into the palm of our hand for us to taste.  I cupped both hands together in hopes of getting a larger sample, but that gesture unfortunately didn't work for me.  :( 

We ended up filling two bottles....one from a 12 year old Sherry Butt (59.6% Alcohol) and the other from a 2nd Fill Bourbon Barrel (60.7% Alcohol).  Both were extremely tasty and I was hoping to sneak a bottle or two more from there, but no luck.

Sherry Butt and Bourbon Barrel

Because I am a member of Warehouse 24, an exclusive club for fans of The Balvenie, we were also treated to a sample from a 39-year old cask.  I say "we", because I was kind enough to offer a sample taste to the rest of the group that were not Warehouse 24 members (although I'm pretty sure David gives it to everyone on the tour).  

Ready for tasting

So what did we taste?  I would love to say that we were treated to all the expressions in thier line....from 12-year old DoubleWood to The Balvenie Fifty, a 50-year old malt created to celebrate Master Distiller David Stewart's 50+ years with Balvenie.  Since there were only 88 bottles of that rare whisky created, the only way that I'll be able to taste that will be to come up with $34,000 (minimum) in order to purchase a bottle.  If you would like to contribute to the Fifty for Greg fund, please contact me!  

Where was I heading with all of this?  Oh yes....the tasting.  We had: the 12-year old DoubleWood, the 12-year old Signature, the 14-year old Caribbean Cask, the 17-year old DoubleWood, the 21-year old PortWood and the 39-year old sample drawn straight from the cask in Warehouse 24.  

39-year old Cask Strength from Warehouse 24....
liquid gold.  Seriously.

David also talked about Tun 1401, a special bottling of some of the rarest whiskies in Warehouse 24.  Jeff asked if we could "nose the bottle"....and David poured us four samples to share.  It's an incredibly complex whisky....selected from seven traditional whisky casks and two sherry butts.  The ages of these whiskies span a number of decades and were all hand-selected by David Stewart.  The whisky was then rested for several months in Tun 1401 - Balvenie's traditional oak marrying vessel.

So....in all total we tasted seven expressions of the Balvenie....all wonderful.  I want to go back.

Thursday, September 19, 2013

The Balvenie Tour continued.....

I'm back....literally.  I'm now back in the United States and back at home with our two daughters and our little Chloe (our 12 year old miniature poodle who was extremely happy to see us!) but I digress.  Where did I leave off yesterday....the tour.

After our introduction to David Mair, Balvenie Ambassador Extraordinaire, he gave us a bit of history about the distillery and the process of making malt whisky.  Balvenie is one of the most famous names in the world of whisky (and for good reason....it's incredibly delicious).  The distillery produces over 5.5 million liters of spirit each year and is considered to be a "complete distillery" since every production process takes place on-site, from growing barley on land adjacent to the distillery (the only distillery to do this), to malting and having their own cooperage.


Balvenie Barley

Balvenie opened in 1892 by William Grant, who wanted to build a new distillery in order to help Glenfiddich, his other distillery, meet consumer demand.  Grant renovated the nearby Balvenie House and it's outbuildings, then bought and installed surplus equipment from the Lagavulin and Glen Albyn distilleries.  The distillery's success was almost instantaneous, following on from Glenfiddich's impressive beginnings.  Early on, most of the whisky produced at Balvenie was put towards the range of blended whiskies produced by Grant & Sons (especially Grant's which has been one of the UK's top selling blends).  It wasn't until the early 1970's that regular single malt releases became common, and the reputation of it's sweet, creamy, rich whisky grew rapidly.  Both Glenfiddich and The Balvenie now concentrate on meeting demand for single malts, with only a small percentage of their spirits going to a new blend called Monkey Shoulder.  


The phone screen in the distillery

On with the tour.....


Jeff part of our tour group.  David has the yellow vest on.

Malt whisky is composed of three key ingredients: malted barley, water and yeast.  The first stage of production is the malting of the barley.  Barley is soaked in tanks of water for two to three days before being spread out onto the malting house floors to germinate.  In order to control germination, the barley must be turned three or more times a day in order to prevent heat pockets and the formation of mold.  This used to all be done by hand....with a shovel.  The constant turning of the barley resulted in painful repetitive shoulder injuries commonly referred to as "Monkey Shoulder"....hence the name for the new blended whisky.

Barley cart and wooden shovel

Piles of malted barley

A new load of barely arriving....not all of Balvenie's barley
is grown on site, but a portion of it still is.

When the maltster feels that the germination is at it's peak and enough starches are present, the germination is halted by drying the barley.  This is done by moving the malted barley to a drying kiln which is identifiable by the distinctive pagoda shaped chimneys which can be seen at most distilleries.  The fuel used to fire these kilns is supplied by either coal, or more commonly....peat, which is a natural fuel cut from the moors of Scotland (peat is basically partially decayed vegetation).  Smoke from the fire drifts gently up through the wire mesh floor of the kiln, and the "peat reek" will impart a distinct aroma to the final spirit (Balvenie has very little peat character or smokiness).

The malt kiln

The exhaust fan in the kiln

The mesh floor

Coal for the fire.  Very little peat is used in 
Balvenie

Once dried, the malted barley is milled to a course flour, or grist, and mixed with hot water in a vessel known as a mash tun.  Three additions of heated water, each addition being hotter than the last results in the conversion of the present starches in the grains to sugars.  This sugary liquid, now known as wort, is then drained off and cooled by running it through wort chillers before being transferred to the fermentation tanks or washbacks.

The mash tuns

David talking up the finer points
of whisky making

The wort chiller

The washbacks (fermentation vessels)

Once yeast is added to the wort, fermentation begins and it becomes known as the wash (which ferments in the washbacks).  Once fermentation is complete the liquid is a bit like strong beer and it about 8-9% alcohol.  Fermentation takes between two and four days....the longer, slower fermentation results in a smoother, fruitier and sweeter whisky like Balvenie.

Washback No. 18

We actually tasted some of the wash straight from these washbacks....not the best.

After fermentation is complete, the wash is transferred to the still room, ready for distillation.  Scotch malt whisky is typically distilled twice, and the size and shape of the kettles used for distillation have a huge influence on the taste of the final product due to the spirit's interaction with the copper.

The first distillation happens in a larger wash still, where it is gradually heated until the alcohol turns to vapor and is condensed into a liquid known as "low wines" which have an alcoholic strength of about 20%.  The low wines are distilled a second time in a spirit still using the same process.  It's during this time that the distillers use their experience and skill to select only the pure middle cut, or heart, of the spirit that has been produced.  This is liquid is now at about 68% alcohol and flows through the Spirit Safe (where it's measured so the tax man can get their cut).

The still room

The Spirit Safe


The final part of the process is the transfer of the new-make spirit into oak casks where it will rest and mature.  All scotch malt whisky goes into first fill American Oak Bourbon casks for the first part of maturation.  After three years in a cask, the liquid inside is legally allowed to be called Scotch whisky, but most single malts (those whiskies from casks from just one single distillery) are aged much longer, and many are finished in other casks such as European sherry butts.  The cask choice has a distinct impact on the final color and flavor of the whisky.  American Oak (bourbon) tends to produce a lighter colored whisky with sweet vanilla and coconut notes, while European Oak (sherry) tends to produce a darker color with notes of sweet fruits.

We weren't allowed to take photographs in the warehouse due to evaporation and the amount of alcohol that could be present in the atmosphere in the storage area.  I don't know if they think a flash could cause an explosion (I think that's highly unlikely, but I obeyed the rules).  This evaporation is known as "the Angel's Share", and at a rate of approximately 2% per year of maturation, it's been estimated that the evaporated alcohol amounts to about 150 million bottles of whisky per year in Scotland.  There are some VERY happy angels up there I think....

Warehouse 24....for members only


Where all of that good whisky is being stored....

Tomorrow I will continue with the cooperage (where their barrels are repaired) and the tasting.