Thursday, September 19, 2013

The Balvenie Tour continued.....

I'm back....literally.  I'm now back in the United States and back at home with our two daughters and our little Chloe (our 12 year old miniature poodle who was extremely happy to see us!) but I digress.  Where did I leave off yesterday....the tour.

After our introduction to David Mair, Balvenie Ambassador Extraordinaire, he gave us a bit of history about the distillery and the process of making malt whisky.  Balvenie is one of the most famous names in the world of whisky (and for good reason....it's incredibly delicious).  The distillery produces over 5.5 million liters of spirit each year and is considered to be a "complete distillery" since every production process takes place on-site, from growing barley on land adjacent to the distillery (the only distillery to do this), to malting and having their own cooperage.


Balvenie Barley

Balvenie opened in 1892 by William Grant, who wanted to build a new distillery in order to help Glenfiddich, his other distillery, meet consumer demand.  Grant renovated the nearby Balvenie House and it's outbuildings, then bought and installed surplus equipment from the Lagavulin and Glen Albyn distilleries.  The distillery's success was almost instantaneous, following on from Glenfiddich's impressive beginnings.  Early on, most of the whisky produced at Balvenie was put towards the range of blended whiskies produced by Grant & Sons (especially Grant's which has been one of the UK's top selling blends).  It wasn't until the early 1970's that regular single malt releases became common, and the reputation of it's sweet, creamy, rich whisky grew rapidly.  Both Glenfiddich and The Balvenie now concentrate on meeting demand for single malts, with only a small percentage of their spirits going to a new blend called Monkey Shoulder.  


The phone screen in the distillery

On with the tour.....


Jeff part of our tour group.  David has the yellow vest on.

Malt whisky is composed of three key ingredients: malted barley, water and yeast.  The first stage of production is the malting of the barley.  Barley is soaked in tanks of water for two to three days before being spread out onto the malting house floors to germinate.  In order to control germination, the barley must be turned three or more times a day in order to prevent heat pockets and the formation of mold.  This used to all be done by hand....with a shovel.  The constant turning of the barley resulted in painful repetitive shoulder injuries commonly referred to as "Monkey Shoulder"....hence the name for the new blended whisky.

Barley cart and wooden shovel

Piles of malted barley

A new load of barely arriving....not all of Balvenie's barley
is grown on site, but a portion of it still is.

When the maltster feels that the germination is at it's peak and enough starches are present, the germination is halted by drying the barley.  This is done by moving the malted barley to a drying kiln which is identifiable by the distinctive pagoda shaped chimneys which can be seen at most distilleries.  The fuel used to fire these kilns is supplied by either coal, or more commonly....peat, which is a natural fuel cut from the moors of Scotland (peat is basically partially decayed vegetation).  Smoke from the fire drifts gently up through the wire mesh floor of the kiln, and the "peat reek" will impart a distinct aroma to the final spirit (Balvenie has very little peat character or smokiness).

The malt kiln

The exhaust fan in the kiln

The mesh floor

Coal for the fire.  Very little peat is used in 
Balvenie

Once dried, the malted barley is milled to a course flour, or grist, and mixed with hot water in a vessel known as a mash tun.  Three additions of heated water, each addition being hotter than the last results in the conversion of the present starches in the grains to sugars.  This sugary liquid, now known as wort, is then drained off and cooled by running it through wort chillers before being transferred to the fermentation tanks or washbacks.

The mash tuns

David talking up the finer points
of whisky making

The wort chiller

The washbacks (fermentation vessels)

Once yeast is added to the wort, fermentation begins and it becomes known as the wash (which ferments in the washbacks).  Once fermentation is complete the liquid is a bit like strong beer and it about 8-9% alcohol.  Fermentation takes between two and four days....the longer, slower fermentation results in a smoother, fruitier and sweeter whisky like Balvenie.

Washback No. 18

We actually tasted some of the wash straight from these washbacks....not the best.

After fermentation is complete, the wash is transferred to the still room, ready for distillation.  Scotch malt whisky is typically distilled twice, and the size and shape of the kettles used for distillation have a huge influence on the taste of the final product due to the spirit's interaction with the copper.

The first distillation happens in a larger wash still, where it is gradually heated until the alcohol turns to vapor and is condensed into a liquid known as "low wines" which have an alcoholic strength of about 20%.  The low wines are distilled a second time in a spirit still using the same process.  It's during this time that the distillers use their experience and skill to select only the pure middle cut, or heart, of the spirit that has been produced.  This is liquid is now at about 68% alcohol and flows through the Spirit Safe (where it's measured so the tax man can get their cut).

The still room

The Spirit Safe


The final part of the process is the transfer of the new-make spirit into oak casks where it will rest and mature.  All scotch malt whisky goes into first fill American Oak Bourbon casks for the first part of maturation.  After three years in a cask, the liquid inside is legally allowed to be called Scotch whisky, but most single malts (those whiskies from casks from just one single distillery) are aged much longer, and many are finished in other casks such as European sherry butts.  The cask choice has a distinct impact on the final color and flavor of the whisky.  American Oak (bourbon) tends to produce a lighter colored whisky with sweet vanilla and coconut notes, while European Oak (sherry) tends to produce a darker color with notes of sweet fruits.

We weren't allowed to take photographs in the warehouse due to evaporation and the amount of alcohol that could be present in the atmosphere in the storage area.  I don't know if they think a flash could cause an explosion (I think that's highly unlikely, but I obeyed the rules).  This evaporation is known as "the Angel's Share", and at a rate of approximately 2% per year of maturation, it's been estimated that the evaporated alcohol amounts to about 150 million bottles of whisky per year in Scotland.  There are some VERY happy angels up there I think....

Warehouse 24....for members only


Where all of that good whisky is being stored....

Tomorrow I will continue with the cooperage (where their barrels are repaired) and the tasting.

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

10 September - Dufftown and The Balvenie Tour!!

Finally....the day I've been waiting for since I made our tour reservations back in April of this year....we finally get to tour the distillery of my FAVORITE whisky....The Balvenie!  Unfortunately, the day began with clouds and rain, but we had close to a two hour drive ahead of us so it wasn't much of a problem.  Well, except for Annette who was driving for us once again (I have to say, she was an incredible chauffeur during our vacation!)  Not that it matters, but we left Ballater via the A939 to Tomintoul, then took the A95 to Craigellachie and finally the A941 to Dufftown.  Below is one of the roads that we drove....I'm very glad that Annette was driving!

Low clouds and rain....and this was the GOOD part of the road

We had a 10:00AM tour scheduled and figured we may be there a bit early, but it gave us time to actually FIND the place as they didn't have a lot of signage out like the other major distilleries.  We did find the proper street in town....

I should live on this street

....and after driving around a bit and finding the Balvenie Castle (not open), we drove back to the main square and found a map.  We were on the correct route, but we didn't drive far enough.  Further on down the road, past the Balvenie Castle and past the Glenfiddich Distillery, we found a small sign and made our way into the private car park for Balvenie tour guests.  Finally, I was home.

The Balvenie Distillery



Where we met up with David, our tour guide

Fancy loo....

We were the first to arrive (of course....I wasn't excited about this part of the trip at all!) and were met by David Mair, who has been with The Balvenie for 23 years and is currently a Balvenie Ambassador.  He brought us into the lounge area, complete with a coal fire burning, and offered us up coffee, tea and biscuits while we waited for the rest of the group to arrive.  He began with a bit of history and a basic talk about how whisky is made....which I will continue at a later date.  Unfortunately, it's now the night before we leave for home and I need to pack my things.  I will update this blog upon my return to Minnesota this weekend!

Cheers!



9 September - Out and About Ballater

We began our day today with a tour and tasting at the Royal Lochnagar Distillery which was just down the road a bit from where we were staying.  The first Lochnagar distillery was burnt down in 1824, and the replacement was burnt down yet again in 1841.  John Begg built the "new" Lochnagar in 1845, and in 1848 it was awarded it's Royal Warrant when John invited Prince Albert to visit the distillery.  The distillery is located nearby Balmoral Castle, the Queen's residence in the Highlands.

Today Royal Lochnagar is owned by Diageo, ad the distillery produces a relatively small amount of whisky, most of which is used in making Johnnie Walker Black and Blue labels.


The distillery Welcome Center

It's as if its calling my name....

The distillery

The malt kiln

What??

Time for the tasting!  So what if it's only 10:30AM....

I think Gin is taking a liking to scotch....


Royal Lochnagar Gardens....

From the distillery, Alan thought it would be nice to take us up above Ballater Castle so we could perhaps get a small glimpse of the place.  We couldn't do a proper visit because the Queen was in residence while we were up there.  I had gone up and asked security is she was available to have tea with the Olson's from Minnesota, but that didn't go over too well.  A view from afar will have to do!  A drive up to the Knock Gallery and this is what we could see....

Balmoral Castle as viewed from the Knock Gallery.  The flag means that the Queen is in residence.

An art gallery full of original pieces from all over Europe

Entrance to the gallery



Very nice garden

On the way back to Ballater we stopped at the Crathie Kirk.  Located in the village of Crathie, the Kirk is a small Church of Scotland parish church best known as the regular place of worship for the British Royal Family when they are on holiday in nearby Balmoral Castle.


Dedication Plaque

Walking up to the Kirk

The Queen's pew when she's attending


Once back at Ballater, we took a walk into town again to find a place for dinner.  We made reservations for the Alexandra Hotel Restaurant....a small, but cozy place.  We wanted to go to La Mangiatoia, but they weren't open on Mondays!

I took a photo of the place we couldn't eat at, but not of the one that we booked!

Downtown Ballater

This used to be a hotel, now it's apartments to let.

I like the chimneys over here...

The River Dee

Before dinner, Jeff and I did a malt whisky tasting with Gordon Muir, who taught us some of the finer points in tasting and nosing whisky.  One trick that I learned was to rub a bit on your wrist until it's dry....this brings out the oils and lets you get more of the "smells" such as grass and wet hay.  I know, it doesn't make whisky sound that appealing, but how about fresh pear or toasted coconut?


Gordon Muir - strangely enough, he's distantly related to John Muir of California (Muir Woods)

We tasted the following spirits:

Royal Lochnagar (for the second time today), Glenlivet, Craggenmore, Dailuaine, Glendronnach, Bullet Bourbon and a 30 year old sherry (so we could get a feel for the taste of the barrels that Scotch whisky is aged in), Talisker, and Lagavulin (ranging from lighter and sweeter to heavier and smokier).

We needed a good dinner after tasting all of those!

After dinner we were back to our cottage for a nightcap, and a review of the route we'd be taking tomorrow on our way to Dufftown.  Finally....our Balvenie tour!!